Last year was a busy one for tour development. The History and Architecture of Echo Park, The Fast and the Fossilized: Museum Row tour, a new version of Hollywood Horrors and Haunts, and more were all 2024 projects! Each tour required a lot of fun research and planning, and had a different goal for what it wanted to show. As I was working on a tour that would thrill the architect inside each of us, I kept coming back to the idea of a hike that would connect some of the most famous and influential landmarks in LA. While several neighborhoods can provide an abundance of stunning residential architecture, I wanted some heavy hitters to bookend the hike for that “Wow!” factor that makes a great tour. Out of all the neighborhoods in LA that could work for a walk like this, none were as perfect for the assignment as Los Feliz.
Los Feliz may not be a name known around the world by potential LA visitors. It hardly has the recognition of Beverly Hills or Hollywood, despite having been functionally similar to both as the destination for silent film studios and the city’s wealthy elite in the early 1900s. Today, a few studios operate in the area and the hills are still filled with movie stars, musicians, and dentists. Vermont Avenue has a small and fun section with shops, restaurants, historic movie theatres, and a bit of pedestrian charm that is missing from other parts of LA. The neighborhood itself is definitely worth spending time in, for both locals and visitors, there’s a chance it will become one of your favorite parts of Los Angeles!
While many visitors don’t plan to spend time in Los Feliz, they are almost certainly planning on visiting the Griffith Observatory. Looking down from the Santa Monica Mountains, keeping watch over Los Angeles, is the iconic Griffith Observatory. Known far and wide for its film appearances, incredible sunsets, and planetarium shows. It sits like an art deco Acropolis for a modern society, glowing in the evening and visible for miles around. I think we found one of our heavy hitters for the tour!
But we will come back to the Observatory. Parking is notoriously rough there, with high costs and often long walks just to get to the lawn. That isn’t great for a tour starting location. How can we start with a bang AND provide parking AND have a restroom opportunity before the hike begins? Thankfully, there's an easy answer: the Hollyhock House by Frank Lloyd Wright.
The History and Architecture of Los Feliz has found its framework! The tour is a 2hr/2.5
ish mile hike from the Hollyhock House to the Griffith Observatory. If you’re an architecture fan, urban explorer, LA history aficionado, or merely curious to see somewhere other than Hollywood Boulevard - this is a great tour for you to join! You can also use the map I’ll have linked here in the post, for those that prefer to get out and explore on their own. Let’s dive into some of the more interesting sites and landmarks we see on the tour!
We begin the tour with the Hollyhock House; Frank Lloyd Wright’s first commission in LA. Built for Aline Barnsdall, an oil heiress and lover of the theatre, the home and property were meant to double as a center for the arts. Barnsdall had a request for Frank Lloyd Wright, that he incorporate her favorite flower, the hollyhock, into the design. The abstraction of the hollyhock flower can be found throughout the property, from the high backs of the chairs in the living room (designed by Wright himself) to the exterior frieze that wraps around the home. The home was completed in 1921 (though some work continued on as late as 1925), but Aline Barnsdall would donate the property in the late 1920s to be used as a park and meeting point for the California Art Club. Now, the house is a part of Barnsdall Art Park, a beautiful park with sweeping views of Los Angeles.
The property is notable for being a UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of only 26 in America! The Hollyhock House was selected as one of 8 FLW structures that reflect significant moments in the career of America’s most revered architect. With Hollyhock, Wright broke away from the Californian obsession with Spanish architecture and experimented more with Mesoamerican forms. Wright’s imitation of Mayan temples (another example of which is coming up later) follows a larger cultural trend of exoticism in architecture at that time. In the decade that follows the Hollyhock House there will be the Chinese Theatre, the Egyptian Theatre, and the Mayan Theatre. The Hollyhock House is less easy to pin down as being specifically Mayan in its inspiration. Japanese silk screens are used to decorate the living room, directly speaking to Wright’s primary distraction while working on Hollyhock. Wright was spending much of his time in Tokyo working on the Imperial Hotel, and this work often took his focus away from Los Angeles. This may have frustrated Aline Barnsdall, but it created an opportunity for a series of incredible architects to make their own contributions to the Hollyhock House.
What makes this home truly interesting is where it finds itself in the overall timeline of FLW and American modernism. Frank Lloyd Wright was known for Prairie style homes in the Midwest. Flat, defined by their open interiors and horizontality, they echoed the landscape and Wright’s idea of organic architecture. This philosophy continues in some ways with the Hollyhock House, but we see the evolution of Frank Lloyd Wright here and his willingness to experiment with new styles and building techniques. Wright also attempts to take this home’s relationship with the elements to the next level. The house wraps around a beautiful light filled courtyard and multiple water features can be found around the gardens. Most intriguing, there is what looks to be a drained moat around the fireplace in the living room. And, that is exactly what that is! Water was meant to flow from an exterior pool into the home and around the fireplace. Unfortunately, the moat never functioned correctly, but his attempt to incorporate water into the functional design of the home could be seen as precursor to his 1935 masterpiece, Falling Water.
Not only was the Hollyhock House a pivotal moment in the progression of Frank Lloyd Wright, the development also saw a revolving door of Wrightian disciples that would be heavily influenced by the most famous American architect. As construction ran over schedule and over budget, Frank Lloyd Wright was replaced by his son Lloyd Wright. Lloyd would be replaced by Rudolph Schindler, and Schindler would work with Richard Neutra to finish the Hollyhock House. Lloyd Wright, Schindler, and Neutra are all masters of the modernist movement themselves, and it's fair to say that they learned a lot from the introduction of California modernism. Many of the homes we see later on during this walk come from these architects, literally looking back down the hill toward their inspiration. I like to imagine the architects much later in their careers, commuting to work, passing the Hollyhock House and Barnsdall Park on their way to projects all their own, but fondly remembering their days chasing the approval and attention of their influential master. As you ascend the hills of Los Feliz, you are moving forward in time with the careers and stylistic changes of some of the most renowned architects of the 20th century. So, what are we waiting for? Let’s head up there!
The goal is to get to the Griffith Observatory, which can be seen from the gardens around the Hollyhock House. We leave Barnsdall Park and head down to Hollywood Blvd. From there, we can cross to the north side of Hollywood and head right (east). Our target is the intersection of Vermont and Hollywood, just a couple blocks away. At Vermont, we turn left and head north all the way to Los Feliz Boulevard. Along this stretch you’ll pass some interesting buildings like the Hollywood Sikh Temple and the 1934 Los Feliz Theatre. If you’re hungry, why not stop for a slice of pie at House of Pies? The Los Feliz location has been around since 1969 and sits at Forest J. Ackerman intersection, named for the literary agent that coined the term “Sci Fi”. There’s so much incredible history in Los Feliz, but this article is about the architecture, so into the hills we go.
Once you cross Los Feliz Blvd, you could continue up and along Vermont to see the amazing homes and, eventually, cross paths with the Greek Theatre. I’d love to do a full day version of the tour that could see even more of Los Feliz and the Greek Theatre, but this 2hr hike sacrifices some of that for a more approachable experience. Instead, we will turn left on the north side of Los Feliz and right on to N. Berendo St. After walking about a block we get to a T intersection. On the far side of the intersection is a beautiful white Spanish home with a curved stairway cutting through the yard to the front door. The stairs are flanked on both sides by a dazzling array of wildflowers. This is 4791 Cromwell Ave, or The Blackburn Residence, a charming 1927 Spanish Colonial mansion from the architect Paul Revere Williams.
Paul Revere William’s place in American architecture cannot be overstated. Williams was the first African-American architect in the AIA and the first African-American architect to have a license west of the Mississippi. His incredible talent led him to become a renowned “starchitect”, with high profile clients like Frank Sinatra. Unfortunately, Paul Revere Williams’ prolific career was fraught with racist irony. He worked on hotels where he couldn't stay and country clubs he could never join. Some of his clients wanted to say they had a home from such a talented architect but wouldn’t sit on the same side of the table with him in public to review designs. Because of this, Williams learned to draw upside down and backwards across the table for those clients. That handwriting now adorns one of the most famous buildings in Los Angeles. The Beverly Hills Hotel’s famous handwritten logo was designed by none other than Paul Revere Williams. Here, Williams is working within the popular Spanish Colonial style of the 1920s. To me, the use of windows in the ½ turret section of the building is prototypical of the Streamline Moderne style’s use of curves and windows in the 1930s. Because of the quality of the work and the legacy of the architect, this home is LA Cultural Historic Monument number 913.
Just to the left of Cultural Monument 913 is Cultural Monument 657 - the Los Feliz Heights Steps! These beautiful stairs are over 100 years old and will help us cut through the neighborhood to reach some more stunning homes. Stairs like these were built when streetcars were a primary mode of transportation in LA. The stairs made hillside neighborhoods more appealing and a bit easier to navigate when trying to get to and from local streetcar stops. There are a few more stairs we will pass as we head up!
Now that you’ve made it to the top of the stairs, turn right. Bonvue Avenue will eventually reach an intersection with Glendower Avenue. Keep heading straight as Bonvue becomes Glendower. Note the stairs on your left, they have a beautiful mosaic of Griffith Park and the Observatory at the top of the first section, it's a quick and easy detour to see the mosaic. You’ll want to continue up Glendower Avenue until you reach the intersection with Bryn Mawr Road. At the northeast side of the intersection you will see the Skolnik House by Rudolph Schindler. This disciple of Frank Lloyd Wright was said, by architectural critic Reyenr Banham, to design houses "as if there had never been houses before". He was surpassed in recognition by his fellow Austrian, Richard Neutra, and never found the fame of some of his contemporaries. The modernist lineage is clear here though, with the Skolnik House continuing the experimentation with light that Frank Lloyd Wright had begun at the Hollyhock House. Translucent material and clerestory windows fill the home with light and an indoor/outdoor fireplace ties the interior and exterior together.
Right around the corner, on Glendower Avenue, is the Hlaffer-Courcier House. This 1923 Storybook style home is one of the best examples of Tudor architecture in the neighborhood, with a fun Hollywood/Fairytale twist. Designed by engineer Rufus Buck, the home was inspired by other LA landmarks like the Tam O’Shanter Restaurant and the Witch’s House (Spadena House) of Beverly Hills. Donald Brown and Chris Parsons are only the 3rd owners, and there’s a good chance one of them will be outside working on the gardens, roof, or just chatting with the neighbors. If you see them, be sure to say hello and complement them on the incredible work done to replace the roof!
Continue around the bend of Glendower and you’ll be face to base with the lower portion of the Ennis House, the massive Mayan temple-esque home that dominates the hillside. As you walk with the Ennis above you on your left, you’re passing some interesting homes on your left. There’s a home with a shoddy wooden fence and barbed wire surrounding it, unusual for a ritzy neighborhood like this. The barbed wire is there to stop urban explorers, trespassers, and ghost hunters from trying to break into the Southern California Murder House! The home really was a murder scene in the 1950s when the Perelson family lived there. It has sat vacant ever since…
Where the road begins to turn left and go uphill, there are a couple more special homes. Hidden behind a white wall is the Wirin House from Richard Neutra. Abraham Lincoln Wirin was a lawyer for the ACLU who defended Japanese Americans during WW2. Richard Neutra is our other Austrian Frank Lloyd Wright disciple who found the fame and acclaim that Schindler would keep searching for. Known for his use of light and glass, Neutra is one of the more recognizable members of the modernist movement. Next door to the Wirin House is a home undergoing a significant amount of construction (as of February 2025). Known as the “Rocker Roadhouse” and “The Castle in Los Feliz”, this Art Nouveau manor ignited a bidding war a few years ago and ended up selling for $10 million. Going back to 1924, he home has a long list of incredible tenants including Getty oil heirs, the Beatles, and Bob Dylan. Chris and Don, from the storybook house, told me they have no idea what is happening to the home and are confused since the house was recently rehabbed. Hopefully, the current owners are handling the renovations with care and we will soon be back to looking at a beautiful home in the hills.
Ok, fine, we can address the Mayan Mesoamerican monolith in the room: the Ennis House. Visible from the Hollyhock House all the way back at the start, the Ennis House is one of the most well known homes in LA. A massive home comprising over 20,000 hand assembled concrete blocks, built in the Mayan Revival style Frank Lloyd Wright had begun experimenting with back at the Hollyhock House. The Ennis House is that style taken to an extreme and using a building technique that Frank Lloyd Wright would call “textile block”. Steel and concrete, woven together, are the materials used in their creation. The concrete could be made on site, saving money on transportation and the concrete tiles were light enough to be carried by the workers who lacked today’s machinery. Frank Lloyd Wright made 4 of these textile block homes in Los Angeles; the Ennis was the last and most grandiose of them all.
Most of the home that is seen from below is really just the retaining wall. By covering the hillside in the concrete blocks, the home takes on the appearance of a mountain sized palace. The home itself sits on top of the massive retaining wall and the entrance can be found on the opposite side of the house. The concrete was made from sand and gravel at the site and, as a result, matches the color of the surrounding hillsides and mountains, keeping in line with the organic architecture of Frank Lloyd Wright. Keep following Glendower Avenue until you see an iron gate on your left. That is the entrance. A long loggia, acting as the spine of the structure, runs alongside the pool from the living room to the master bedroom. From across the street, the pool and loggia are to the left and you get a great view of the large stained glass window that faces the dining room. You may have noticed a matching window on the other side of the home as you made your way up the hill. The interior is made of the same blocks as the exterior and gives it a dramatic appearance, perfect for films like Blade Runner or Game of Thrones.
While the home is striking, it has required a lot of maintenance. The concrete blocks have weathered, the hill has eroded, and the 1994 Northridge earthquake did substantial damage to the building. Throughout its history, three generations of Wrights have been called in to maintain the property. Frank Lloyd Wright, Lloyd Wright, and Eric Lloyd Wright have all overseen work on this Ennis House and, thanks to a $17 million dollar restoration by Ron Burkle, the home is looking better than ever! As you pass the Ennis House, look closely at some of the concrete blocks and you’ll notice some are in terrible condition, left to show you how deteriorated the home was before the restoration.
That’s two legendary Frank Lloyd Wright houses on 1 tour! For anyone else, that might be a good enough tour, but we have our sights set higher and we’ve almost made it to our ultimate destination. So, let’s keep heading up and over the hill until Glendower starts to descend. Not long after you hit the decline, there’ll be an intersection with Glendower Road, take this new street to the right. After walking for about a minute, you’ll be looking at a gate with a pushbar to open it. Don’t panic! This is just a secretive entrance into Griffith Park and all are welcome to use it! The gate does get locked from sunset to about 5am though, so keep that in mind. Once you’re through the gate, you’ve made it to the final section. Welcome to Griffith Park!
At over 4,210 acres, Griffith Park is one of the largest urban parks in the United States and 5x the size of Central Park in New York. Miles of hiking trails wind their way through the Santa Monica Mountains, from the Hollywood Sign to the Greek Theatre. Attractions like the Griffith Observatory and Hollywood Sign draw millions of visitors each year, while the locals take advantage of the numerous trails, tennis courts, and lawns to escape a bit of the LA day-to-day. It is fair to say that Griffith Park is one of the best parts of Los Angeles.
The trail we want to use to get to the Griffith Observatory is called Boy Scout Trail, and it isn’t far away! When you enter the park, you can only take the one path in front of you. Eventually, the trail splits and you want to stay to the left. Pass under a few shady oak trees and the trail turns to dirt and gets very narrow. It is narrow and steep for about 15 feet and then you step onto Boy Scout Trail. This is a clear trail, flat and wide. There will probably be other people making their way to the Observatory. You’ll want to head left and up the trail until you come to a viewpoint with a bench. There’s a great view of the Hollywood Sign, but don’t get too distracted, make a hard right when you get to the bench so you’re heading straight towards the Griffith Observatory. This last section is a bit steep, but you can do it! Take breaks and listen for the sounds of the woodpeckers tapping away at the nearby trees. Eventually, you’ll find yourself on the beautiful grounds of one of the most treasured American landmarks. Welcome to the Griffith Observatory!
Opened in 1935, the Griffith Observatory is celebrating its 90th birthday this year! Architects Frederick M. Ashley and John C. Austin utilized the Art Deco style with Greco Roman influences, seen in the decorative elements (not the Grecian key design that rings the building). Less vertical than some Art Deco, the building has elements of the Moderne movement. Horizontality and curves reminiscent of luxury cruise liners are some of the identifying elements of the Moderne style, versus the verticality and golden flamboyance of Art Deco. Inside, the layout uses a Beaux-Arts axial plan for symmetry, flow, and drama. The exterior was meant to be clad in terracotta, but an earthquake during development led to a change. Thick concrete walls would reinforce the structure, ensuring its longevity. Couple the design with the opulence of the marble, murals, and metalwork found all over the interior, and the result is a stunning structure that wows people in 2025 just as much as it did in 1935.
With amazing architecture and world class views, including a great view of the Hollywood Sign, the Observatory should be on every visitor’s itinerary. Fans of La La Land, Terminator, Rebel Without a Cause, or Transformers should all recognize the courtyard as a popular filming location. When you visit, make sure to walk around the outside for all the great views and be sure to head inside to learn all sorts of interesting astronomical facts! The planetarium also offers a variety of shows, there’s a cafe on the lower level, exhibits on both floors, and more.
When you’re finally ready to end the tour, you could walk back down the hill, take an Uber or taxi from the Observatory, or use the DASH Shuttle. The DASH is particularly useful for this hike, because it will take you right back down to the Hollyhock House, where we began. You’ll also pass the Greek Theatre, which lets you see one more architectural wonder before you leave the area. But, that’s it! By following the information in this article, you’ll have taken an architectural journey through mid century masterpieces and modernist marvels. In under 3 miles, you’ve crossed paths with the architectural who’s who from American history. Neutra, Schindler, Williams, Austin, Ashley, and the Wrights (don’t forget Lloyd, who has his own Mayan marvel on Franklin Ave with the Sowden House)! I hope you had fun reading or exploring. Maybe it will inspire you to explore LA or your own home for hidden wonders in the least likely of places. The world is full of amazing history waiting to be uncovered.
If you’re not confident in doing the walk on your own or just want someone to show you and your group around, you can book this tour by following this link:
If you’d like to experience this tour yourself, I have included a map. You’ll find it by following this link:
***Please note that this map does not go in the exact same order as this article and includes a lengthy extra section that will take you further than the Hollyhock House!
And, here is a video preview of the tour:
This tour and many others can all be found here on the website. Thank you so much for taking the time to read this long article. I hope you had a good time and learned something new! Until next time, get out and explore!
Chris Westbrook
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